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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.